Canadian Fashion 2010 Paper Dolls

Final Fashion’s mastermind, illustrator Danielle Meder, is at it again.  From designing Doc Martens to creating wicked Keds for charity to inventing Snow Queen apparel, it seems like this wily gal always has something amazing in the works!

This particular project is a comprehensive look at the Spring/Summer 2010 offerings from LG Fashion Week in Toronto.  Starting in October, Danielle churned out 17 unique paper dolls for 15 collections, including designers like VAWK, Brazen Hussy, and Biddell.  Take a look at some of the best (in my humble opinion):

What I love about Danielle’s drawing style is that it’s so smooth and fun.  Every person she draws not only looks like a real human being, but they seem like they’re having a good time with their clothes.  You can see how much she loves her work in every illustration.

And by the way, since it’s the holidays, you might want to pick up the entire paper doll book, available as a PDF ($17.95) through Final Fashion or as a softcover book ($42.95) through Blurb.  I’m definitely putting it on my wish list!

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Edited: December 16th, 2009

Coming to Terms with My Hair

I haven’t seen my natural hair colour in 10 years.

Until I cut all the blue and bleach of out it, ending up with about an inch of dark, ash-blonde fuzz.

The Saga of My Hair has been a long, fascinating story spanning a full decade.  When I was in junior high, I decided that I wanted to have blue hair, but my mom strictly forbid it until I was 16 (at which point and since then she’s helped me with it).  I didn’t start there, sadly – the first experiment was with Natural Instincts brightest red – but over the years, my hair’s been nearly every colour I could get my hands on.  I’ve had white, black, natural brown/red/blonde, fire-engine red, midnight blue, royal blue, turquoise, apple green, ultraviolet, and bubblegum pink.

People always asked my why I did the crazy colours.  Am I being a rebel?  Sticking it to someone?  Trying to be a punk?  Trying to be fashionable?  Looking for attention?  But it’s never been about any of that.  Nothing to rebel against, really, and I get plenty of positive attention already.  I do it because I think it’s pretty, and, as someone once sagely commented, because my natural hair colour is the only one that doesn’t look right on me.

And now…

Now I’m going to grow it out, healthy and unchemicaled, for a year.

I’m not sure what spurred the change.  I think it’s got something to do with laziness.  Having to do upkeep on the bleach and the colour in my increasingly-porous hair is pretty time-consuming and can be expensive.  Plus, it’s hell on the hair itself – it shouldn’t stretch when it’s wet, yanno?  And the length has something to do with it, too, I think.  I grew it for a year before the wedding and liked the end result (even if you can’t tell in the pics cos the guy put my hair in a bun!), so I want to see if I can do it again.

But I’ve run into a bit of a brick wall.  I’ve had crazy hair for so long that it’s become part of who I am; losing that aspect of my description, of my beauty, is harder for me to cope with than I’d anticipated.  Like, I know that it’s part of the reason Mr. Man was/is attracted to me.  Now that it’s gone, I find myself feeling extremely vulnerable and worried that he doesn’t think I’m as pretty anymore because I lost that “edginess” (I have the same worry about my piercings, which is why I still have them).  When all that damaged hair hit the salon floor, some new idea opened a crack in some of my issues and I’m working on healing it up.

Part of me is going to miss the little old ladies in the supermarket who say, “Your hair is so beautiful. I wish I could dye mine (insert colour here).”  And the little kids who excitedly tug on their mommy’s and daddy’s shirts saying “Look at her hair!  Can I do that?” in hushed tones.  Part of me is going to wonder if I’m less special now because I’m not colourful or funky.  If I’m going to become bland on the inside to match what I see on the outside.  Part of me is going to feel like my husband doesn’t find me as attractive.  That I’m no longer the hot, sexy mess he first lusted after.

But I’ll go forward and iron it all out and work on other ways to be different.  And I’ll still be special and I’ll still be sexy without my hair to identify me.

Edited: December 14th, 2009

Jackqueline Hope is Big, Bold and Beautiful

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There’s something great about reading a memoir, particularly a story as inspirational as this one. The insight satisfies the voyeur in me. I can’t help it; I’m nosy.

Jackqueline Hope married young, at a size 12, and through a traumatic and abusive relationship (including motherhood), rose to over 300lbs in a few short years.  She was told by family, friends, and even strangers that she would “be so pretty” if only she’d lose weight. Against her better judgement, she succumbed to that pressure and yo-yo dieted for years, just to make other people happy.

But one day she realized, in a sudden epiphany, that she didn’t have to live up to anyone else’s standards.  She left her husband, became Canada’s first plus-sized model, opened her own business (Big, Bold and Beautiful), started a fashion line (Jackie Jackie), founded a modeling agency (Plus Figure Models), and inspired scores of other women to shut out society’s negative messages and embrace themselves.  She continued to improve her self-esteem while traveling along the racks from sizes 12-28, never returning to her former days of bending to others’ expectations.  Hope embraces fitness and a healthy mentality about food, as well as tackles the stereotypes and cruelties of the fashion world.  She believes that every woman deserves to feel lovable, sexy, and beautiful, no matter what her shape or size.

What’s intriguing and wonderful about Hope’s story is that, despite feeling the pressure and enduring the pain of feeling like she deserved the weight-based abuse, Hope never understood why other people didn’t think she was beautiful, no matter her size.  She had been looking in the mirror and liking what she saw; she knew for a fact that she was beautiful.  Unlike so many of us, she managed to avoid internalizing the media messages and the current beauty myth – rather than thinking I’m ugly, she thought If other people want me to be thin, I’ll try to do that for them. But I’m beautiful already.  While that isn’t particularly healthy either, it’s a perspective that we don’t often hear about in size-talk.

Here are a few snippets from the book to lure you in:

“I wasn’t going to hate [my body]  just because it didn’t fit into a wedding dress, nor was I going to hate it because others were finding it unattractive.”

“As long as I am healthy and active, who cares if I never make the swimsuit issue of Sports Illustrated?  I admire the woman who feels free to dance naked in the garden no matter what her size.”

“How conceited could I be to think that if would be my fault that someone was being rude and cruel [about my body]?  Instead, I began to think, ‘Wow, do they have a big problem.  I’m wonderful.  Why are they speaking that way?  Staring like that?’”

“I inflicted pain on myself to make someone else happy, when all along my body wasn’t the problem.”

“Life is not something to be put on hold.  Beauty does not stop at a size 14.”

Hope’s conversational writing style is perfect for this kind of story.  It’s deeply personal and unashamed, speaking to the reader honestly.  Although I’m on the cusp between “normal” and “plus-sized”, I found myself identifying with and rooting for Hope in her struggles.  It’s a short read (only 190 pages) and shouldn’t be missed.

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Take-home message: No matter what size or shape you are, no one has the right to tell you that you’re not good enough. You should always be free to feel beautiful.

Source: Hope, Jackqueline. Big, Bold and Beautiful: Living Large on a Small Planet. Toronto: Macmillan Canada, 1996.

In the Press:

Interested in being a plus-size model?:

Do you feel like you’ve internalized the beauty myth, or have you managed, like Hope, to keep it separate from your inner monologue?  Have ever considered modelling and rejected the idea?  Why?

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Edited: August 19th, 2009

She’s Got the Look

Sorry there’s no pretty pictures in this article, dear readers; it’s not that kind of post. But I hope you’ll read on anyway, I desperately want to hear what folks think about this sensitive and outrageous topic.

Today in the UK, Riam Dean won her case against Abercrombie and Fitch in a lawsuit accusing the hugely popular clothing brand of “disability discrimination” for an incident that landed the former employee in the stockroom, made her question her self-worth, and ultimately led to her grudging resignation after only five shifts. Dean is missing part of her left arm (to the elbow) and was informed by a manager that she was in violation of the company’s “look policy”, as outlined in the employee handbook, when she wore a sweater to cover the join of elbow and prosthesis, and was no longer allowed to work the sales floor. A tribunal awarded Dean ₤9000 for pain and suffering, as well as for lost wages, but not for actual “disability discrimination”. (“Disabled Student Wins Employment”)

So, two things:
1. The tribunal’s ruling
2. The look policy itself

Dean didn’t get the justice she originally sued for. She just got money. And while cash is great, it’s not the blow for that should have been struck in this case. We’re a highly litigious society anyway, but this should have been a clear-cut case of discrimination (particularly in light of at least a dozen other cases of A&F being sued by employees for prejudice of various sorts) that was resolved under the guise of fairness.

In the United States, it is illegal to refuse someone a job on the basis of their race, gender, weight, sexuality, disability, or religion. I’m not sure about the UK’s actual laws, but I cannot imagine that they legally allow active discrimination either [[I found this, if it applies.]]. So, when Dean applied for the job and met all other qualifications, she got the position. But once inside the doors, employers can and do exercise all kinds of methods to hide the “undesirables” they’ve been required to hire.

What the fuck kind of shit is that?

And that brings me to the second point: the look policy itself. Manymanymany companies, particularly retail fashion companies, have codes of both conduct and dress, so there’s nothing surprising in that that have a policy. It’s what the policy itself states, as reported at Telegraph:

Abercrombie & Fitch’s ‘look’ rules detailed:

  • Staff must “look great” while still exhibiting “individuality”.
  • Women’s fingernails must be no more than a quarter of an inch beyond the tip of the finger.
  • Beards, moustaches or other facial hair are banned except for religious reasons.
  • Clothing should always be “classic American style” while only “clean, natural” hairstyles are acceptable.
  • Women should only wear foundation, base or blush if it “matches” their natural skin tone.
  • Eyebrow pencil, eye liner, lipstick and eye shadow are also only allowed in “natural” shades.
  • Store managers will define “appropriate” colours for toenail polish.
  • Women’s earrings “should not be longer than a dime and should not dangle”.
  • Other piercings are forbidden and men must never wear earrings.
  • Although the store sells caps they are “too informal for the image we project” for staff. (“Abercrombie and Fitch “Look Policy”)

That’s only part of it. Click the tag at the end of the list for other items in the policy.

Some of these points are understandable and carried out in other chains across the globe; others make you go “what?” and make weird faces in confusion. While having a dress code is a fabulous idea for most clothing and beauty retailers, the extent of A&F’s is dangerously close to crossing the boundary between sanity and insanity helpful and harmful.

Dean’s case should have cracked this shit wide open. As it stands, she’s a little richer, A&F are getting some bad press, and things are just going to go right back to normal. But maybe not. Maybe there’s something good that can come from this. As Mark Borkowski put it, “When people are confronted daily with pictures of heroic soldiers returning from Afghanistan with missing limbs, people will look at this case and think that Abercrombie & Fitch is incredibly shallow” (qtd in “Disabled Student Wins Employment”). With any luck, this could be the case that pushes the right buttons to get this company to loosen its grip.

Until this shit stops, don’t shop with them. They’ve got shitty business practices and shittier personal codes. Don’t even buy it at the thrift store. Even if they’re not getting money from that sale, you still know what they do and your karma pays that toll for you automatically. Don’t support people who think that anyone who doesn’t (even loosely) embody the physical Aryan ideal will hurt their sales (and challenge their own worth).

Edited: August 14th, 2009

Ringpop Love

RingpopStripImages courtesy of ohhbetty

Confession time: I don’t have a sweet tooth. I have a sweet jaw. Every tooth in my head cries out for delicious candy all the freaking time. I do what I can to ignore it, but sometimes…you just have to give in. Nowadays I’m trying to channel my subversive need for all things sugary into other, more constructive, avenues.

Image courtesy of davidfcknlopan

Ringpops are a blast from my early-90s childhood and are the perfect inspiration for summertime. Look at all those jeweltones and eye-popping shapes! Tell me those things aren’t meant for translation into fashion! I took a spin over to Polyvore and whipped up a couple of sets in a fury of sugar-fueled frenzy for your eyecandy enjoyment.

Also, if you know where to find these Peep-pops, pleasepleaseplease tell me! I’ll love you forever. They’re another one of my cutsie obsessions. [There may or may not be an awesome post about Peeps come next Easter. Stay tuned...]

Image courtesy of kodamakitty

What candy inspires you? Is there any other food that you think can be translated effectively into clothing expression?

xxxooo,

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Edited: August 3rd, 2009

Now I’m Even Packing Like a Rockstar

I’m getting all my crap together to head out tomorrow and realized (with a bit of encouragement) that I was missing a perfectly good oversharing moment if I didn’t document the hell out of my packing experience this afternoon. So here goes:

100_2122Dr. Bones sez: “Plz don’ go!”

Ever since I stayed with my aunt in Europe [Gawd that sounds pretentious, doesn't it?  Trust me, it wasn't like that.],  I’ve been notorious in my circle of friends for being a Super Packer ™.  My suitcase always contains everything I need, as well as a few things I suspect I might need, in perfect order and in perfect fit.  I always made fun of friends and boyfriends who would bring a garment bag, suitcase, and a purse/backpack on every trip – they were packing like “sick old ladies”.

Turns out that karma’s a bitch.

Since deciding that I’m going to be a rockstar (see: blogdiva, princess, debutante), I’ve started packing…heavier.  As in extra shoes, more outfits than days that I’ll be gone, six shades of eyeshadow, the lot. I’m on my way to Saint Louis [holla!] for five days and this is what I’m packing:

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Know what I’m doing?  Going to a funeral on Saturday night (we’re…special) and out with college friends on Sunday.  THAT’S IT.  The grand sum of my plans totals two nights of doing anything at all.  The rest, I suspect will be spent sitting on the couch with my good friend, watching Top Gear and Iron Chef America, and eating ice cream.

Not that there’s anything wrong with that.  I’m just saying I believe that I may have overpacked.

BUT! Butbutbut…I did manage to pack five days’ worth of schtuff into a tiny little, carry-on-sized suitcase – the backpack is almost entirely empty (I have a 17″ laptop and a couple books in there).  So maybe I did okay.  Maybe I can be a rockstar and be a Super Packer ™, too!

Luggage

See?  Not so bad, right guys?  Guys…?

What’s your packing like (no jokes, you perverts)? How much crap do you cart around with you when you’re travelling?

xxxooo,

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Edited: July 30th, 2009

Wait, What?

Images courtesy of PaperMode

Shoes? Yes, please. Also that dress. And that apple. In fact, I’ll take the whole thing to go. Wrap it up.

While perusing the weekly download of links from Ms. Nubby, I wandered over to a post at Paper Mode, a fashion editorialist blog.  Here is the blurb about the beautiful spread that follows, as written on their site:

Amazing 64-page editorial in the August issue of Vogue Paris shot by Inez & Vinoodh and curated by the magazine’s editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld, Emmanuelle Alt and Joe McKenna. 64 looks, 64 brands, from Calvin Klein to Yohji Yamamoto to YSL to Balmain, each look creates an iconic image that embodies each brand, definitely a who’s who guide in the industry and if that weren’t enough it features some of the greatest faces around, including favorites like Raquel Zimmermann, Isabeli Fontana, Natasha Poly, Anja Rubik, Sessilee Lopez, Lily Donaldson, Lara Stone and Daria Werbowy, who’s also on the cover.

I won’t repost the entire thing here, primarily because that’s not my intention in writing today.  I’d just like to focus on some of the highlights of the spread.  First, the awesome:

Lovelovelove all four of these shots.  Each one has a classic style and perfectly sums up the brand (yes, Vivienne and Karl are brands, too).  The CK ad, in particular evokes weird teeny-bopper feelings for me.  Must be all those illicit Cosmos I read when I was still 16.  And man, that Karl Lagerfield shot!  Sexy sexiness.

But then, there’s this:

What.  The.  Fuck.

BlackfaceBlackface?!

That last time I checked, it was 2009, a year far out of the racist grasp of the vaudevillian era when it was common practice to do such things for entertainment.  I’m not a prude or PC-advocate by any stretch of the imagination, but THIS?!  Who thought this was okay?  What out-of-touch suburbanite sat down at the sketch pad one day and said, “You know, I think I’ll take a white girl, dress her up in western-style clothing, giver her a beehive-afro, and paint her face black.”

(deep breath) Okay.  Whew.  Honestly, though.  Really?  The entire rest of the spread was just amazing – tasteful, stylish, beautiful.  Then there’s that one.  Does anyone else have a problem with this?  Or is it just me?  Granted I don’t know anything about this particular brand/stylist but…come on.   Okay, time to sign off before I explode.  I’d love to hear your feedback about this, if you feel like sharing.  Conversational shit, people!

xxxooo,

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Disclaimer! I am not, nor have I ever been, a fashion critic.  I’m largely unfamiliar with the “styles” of many of the biggest labels.  The ones I do know are those that permeated my existance before I ever gave a rat’s ass about what I wore.  So please, bear with me.  Comments are appreciated, flaming is not.

Edited: July 24th, 2009